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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.